Done. I AM WALKING MACHINE.

Thunder and lightning as I pass Shinjuku. 7km to go.

Final day. Light rain. In the city.

In Chofu. A good day despite the rain.

Dogs in raincoats make me laugh.

Still raining. Sheltering at McDs.

Pouring down. Luckily I have waterproof skin.

In Hachioji. A long, tough day, but satisfying.

At the top of final pass. Tokyo here I come!

One more mountain stage today, then two days on the flat. Legs a bit tired.

Made it to Uenohara. It turned fine in the afternoon.

Lunch on day 7. Still in the hills but the flat is in sight.

Rained overnight. Cloudy and cool now. Still tired from yesterday. Only 20km today though.

In Otsuki now. Made up time on the downhill stretch.

Got lost in the clouds over Sasago Pass. Out of the woods now but behind schedule. Current temp: 15 degrees.

Finished. Rained for a couple of hours. I'm over half way, but still have some passes to tackle.

In the mid-20s today. A relief after yesterday's 35.7.

Made it. My scrummy mix melted.

Stopped at the Yamamashi Museum of Art. They have a Millet collection - and air conditioning.

Another scorcher. 33 degrees. Short day though. Should be in Kofu by lunch time.

Arrived in Nirasaki. A pleasant day's walk. Walked the last few km with a man from Nara I met yesterday.

Just stopped at a sake brewery. They insisted I have a free sample.

Oh no! Just been attacked by a ... rose bush.

Long day ahead. Hot too. High of 32 forecast.

Phew! That was a hard day's walk. Seemed a lot further than 19km.

No injuries yet, but I may be getting a cold.

Just got "roped in" to a festival, dragging a log to a shrine.

Lunching in Chino.

Leaving Kami-Suwa.

Walked 5.9km. Hot, but not unpleasantly so.

On a train, listening to The Chills.

Breakfasting in Tokyo. At 10 I catchthe train to Shimosuwa, the starting point of the Koshu kaido.

Koshu Kaido - The Route

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To read an extended account of my Tokaido walk, go over to my main site at http://thewalkingfool.blogspot.com/.

Time for a beer.

I'm there. Nihonbashi. Unlike last time it's still light.

On the move again. About 1km to go.

Stopped for ice coffee and cheesecake!

Turned the final bend. The end is in sight.

2km to go.

I'm too early. I'm going to have to stop for coffee.

Ginza! They've closed the street to vehicular traffic to coincide with my arrival.

Passing Hamamatsucho station, close to the hotel where I used to work.

4km to go.

Passing Tamachi station, near my old university.

I'm in Shinagawa, looking for a lunch place.

Crossing the Tama river. I'm now in Tokyo!

Day 25. The final leg into Nihonbashi, 20km away. Will the toe hold up? Will the groin give way? And how will the nose cope?

Kawasaki falls to the invading party of one. Tomorrow I swoop on the capital.

Coffee and caking before the final push into Kawasaki.

Back on the flat.

Taken Kanagawa (Yokohama). No stopping me now.

Lunching on deepfried oysters.

Hodogaya conquered.

Some steep little climbs this morning. But I've just been rewarded with a view of Mt Fuji through the haze, my first since Satta pass.

Every morning my shadow follows me, every afternoon I follow it. I'm heading east.

Leaving Totsuka.

That's it for another day. I'm less than 50km from Tokyo now. Not many cabbage patches around.

Passing through Fujisawa. The sun has come out.

Lunch. It's stopped raining for now.

Leaving Hiratsuka. Still raining.

At home I usually start the day with a slice of toast and a cup of coffee. Today I had scrambled eggs on toast; two croissants; a bowl of cereal with fruit, yoghurt, fruit juice and milk; two cups of coffee; and a glass of apple juice.

Yesterday the rainy season officialy began. Thls morning it's raining.

In Oiso now. Coffeeing until check in at 3pm.

A few spots of rain...

Lunch. It's a pleasant morning, cloudy with a sea breeze keeping the temperature down.

At Odawara. Having a quick look at the castle.

Today I continue descending to Odawara and then head up the coast to Oiso.

I love this hotel. Last night when I came out of the hot spring I heard the pianist in the restaurant playing My Foolish Heart. They have grapefruit juice. I love grapefruit juice. I don't want to leave.

I'm alive.

Plans for the rest of the day: eat, soak in the hotel's hot spring, sleep.

Arrived at Hakone-yumoto at the end of another tough day.

Lunching in Hakone. Nearly came a cropper on the slippery stone pathway coming down.

At the top now. It's quite chilly, so I'm heading strahght down into Hakone town. I'm now in Kanagawa prefecture.

Midday. It's taken me four hours to walk just over ten km.

Still climbing. Another couple of km to the top.

Snake! Over a metre long. Dead or playing dead. Got close enough to take a photo.

Pausing to apply bug spray. Got two bites already.

It's quite a bit cooler than yesterday, which is a relief. The pass is at 846m, and I'm climbing from more or less sea level.

Having to negotiate some major roadworks at the moment.

The calf came right overnight. The climb is going well so far.

Today's goal is Hakone-yumoto, about half way between Hakone and Odawara.

I'm in front of Mishima Taisha shrine, about to leave Mishima and climb the highest pass on the Tokaido: Hakone Toge.

Didn't reach Mishima till 5pm. Right calf is quite sore. Hope it gets better by tomorrow.

Stopped in Numazu for a coffee. About 6km to go.

I'm in Hara. It's actually quite fine nowt although the top half of Mt Fuji, which is very close now, remains obscured by cloud.

Today's goal is Mishima, some 25km away. The road looks pretty flat and straight. Tomorrow I hit the hills of Hakone.

Back to the familiar cloudy sky this morning. It feelsas if yesterday morning's fine weather was a dream.

At least they're playing jazz over the PA.

This morning's coffee is the worst I've had all trip. Not all coffee vending machines are equal.

It's my lucky day! Not only did I see Mt Fuji, but I just bought some things (sushi, salad, etc) for dinner at a supermarket and won all my money back.

That's it for another day. Time to do some washing.

It clouded over while I was inside the museum and Mt Fuji hasn't been visible since.

Having a late lunch. I've just crossed the Fuji river, so I'm pretty close to today's goal.

Arrived in Kanbara.

I'm just about to leave Yui after looking at the Hiroshige museum. Spent a lot of time at the top of the pass taking photos.

Wow! I'm at the top now. Amazing view of Mt Fuji. A bit of cloud to one side but amazing. Yesterday I saw the (flat) modern road along the coast and for a moment was tempted. Glad I took the dificult route.

Damn. No cell phone coverage. Reached the top at about 8.30.

Going up. It's quite hot already. I'm glad I'm doing this at 8 in the morning and not later in the day.

Good morning! Beautifully fine today. I should have a great view of Mount Fuji as I go over the Satta Pass.

I'm on the coast again at Okitsu. From where I'm staying I can see the hill I have to climb tomorrow morning.

It's the swallow nesting season. They build their nests under the eaves of shops and houses. People lay newspaper underneath to catch the droppings.

First glimpse of Mt Fuji! Very excited.

At Mr Donut (again). Erik, they don't seem to have Boston Cremes. I'm having a Coconut Chocolate instead.

Was passed a few minutes ago by a young guy walking around Japan.

Lunching at a curry place in front of Shimizu station (Ejiri on the map).

There are patches of blue sky now. I'm approaching Shimizu, where I plan to stop for lunch.

It stopped raining as soon as I set off. It's been spitting on and off the last hour, but I've just taken off my jacket.

Just finished packing. It's started raining :ー(

The toe feels fine and almost looks normal. Felt a twinge in the groin before so took a Nurofen.

I'm actually looking forward to tomorrow. There's a pass, but also a couple of museums, one dedicated to Hiroshige.

Today I'll walk about 20km to Okitsu. There are no hills as far as I know.

Good morning. It rained all yesterday, but it appears to have stopped. Showers forecast for today.

Did I mention it was raining today? The wettest day so far.

Spent the morning in my room washing clothes and watching Atonement. Going out now.

I made it. Time for a coffee.

About to cross the Abe river into Shizuoka city.

Just had a late lunch.

Entering Mariko.

Snake! God I hate those things.

Oops. No cell phone coverage.

I'm at the top.

This time I filled my water bottle before the climb.

Going up...

In Okabe now.

Been going about an hour. Legs are a bit sore from yesterday.

Cloudy and gloomy outside. Could be in for some rain.

Mini croissant...going in for seconds.

Yum. The breakfast pastries at this hotel are scrummy.

Just over 20km today and then a rest day tomorrow. Today's goal is Fuchu-juku in the city of Shizuoka.

It's live jazz night at the hotel here in Fujieda. I'm tempted to take up the offer of a free beer, but will probably stay off the booze till tomorrow (Friday is a rest day).

After a bad start (I got lost trying to get back onto the Tokaido from my hotel) it turned into a very satisfying day. I conquered two passes, crossed a major river, and enjoyed some beautiful scenery off the beaten track.

Not much though.

With gas still left in the tank.

Made it.

Passing through Shimada. On the flat again.

Plus I just found a lovely coffee shop which does lunch and has jazz playing inside.

Don't bother, I made it to the top. Got some water.

Still going up. Out of water. Now would be a good time to send messages of encouragement.

Reached the bottom...and about to go up again!

At the top now.

Still going up, though not as steeply as before. Tea plants everywhere.

I should have looked at the map more carefully. The Steep Slope with Seven Turns would have given me an idea of what to expect. Luckily I'd rested and filled my water bottle at Nissaka.

Taking a break in Nissaka. It's been a gradual climb for the last hour, and it looks like there's more to come.

First break of the day. I'm running out of Scrummy Mix. Plus there seem to be a lot of pumpkin seeds at the bottom.

There'r a pass somewhere along the way.

Today's goal is Fujieda, about 28km away.

Finishing off breakfast. No yoghurt this morning :ー(

Arrived at Kakegawa at 3pm. Done some washing and email checking. Taking it easy before the big day tomorrow.

Lunching a few km before Kakegawa.

Passing through Fukuroi.

I feel a bit tired this morning. I don't know if it's because yesterday was so long or because I had a beer and a wine last night. Probably a combination of both.

I'm off!

It's another fine day, although predicted to become as hot as yesterday.

Day 14: Mitsuke to Kakegawa (18.7km).

Just arrived in Mitsuke (Iwata). Today took longer than I thought it would. I actually started a few km south of Maisaka, so it was probably closer to 30km all together.

Afternoon tea at...Gusto (using a coupon from lunch).

Lunching at Gusto a couple of km out of Hamamatsu.

First break of the morning. Judging by the map, it's going to be a day of long, flat, straight roads.

My breakfast tray tells me "It will be a good day today".

Day 13: Maisaka to Mitsuke (23.8km). Fine, and a high of 27 forecast.

Another day done. I must be almost half way to Tokyo by now.

Sunny and quite hot now. About 3km to go.

Just checking out another wee museum in Arai. This one is all about the check point that once stood here.

The sea!

The rain didn't last long. I didn't even bother to put my raingear on.

On the outskirts of Shirasuka. I'm now in Shizuoka, Mrs Fool's home prefecture.

A great wee museum dedicated to the Tokaido, but it started raining while I was inside.

Weather cloudy and mild.

At Futagawa.

Correction: Cafe Danmark.

Long day ahead. I'll be stopping at Futagawa to see a Hiroshige exhibition.

Muffin set at Cafe Denmark, Toyohashi.

Breakfasting...

Lunching in Toyohashi. Check in is at 1pm, so I'll have plenty of time to wash my hat before heading out to check the sights.

Today's goal is Yoshida-juku, now the city of Toyohashi.

Passing through Goyu. Just met another walker.

Light drizzle is beginning to fall. I hope it does't get any stronger. I left my rain hat in my pack because it was starting to get smelly.

Found coffee :-)

Have left the inn. Looking for coffee...

Breakfasting, but there's NO COFFEE!

At the inn now. Apparently this place served as the model for Hiroshige's print of Akasaka-juku.

Arrived in Akasaka. Just having a coffee before checking in at the old inn.

Just had a convenience store lunch in Fujikawa. Getting a bit hilly now, which is nice since it's been totally flat since Nagoya.

Yikes! Just saw a snake.

The toe feels good. I can hardly notice it.

I started on the "scrummy mix" yesterday. It's much nicer than the "scroggin".

First break for the day.

Got the sunglasses on for the first time since day 1.

Breakfasting. A beautiful blue sky this morning. I think I'll visit the castle before heading off.

I considered stepping in, but didn't want to risk further damaging the toe.

That's the second time I've been to see a quartet to find a member missing. Last time it was the bassist, this time it was the drummer.

Phew, some other people have arrived.

At the jazz place. I'm the only one here so far.

Plans for the rest of the day: do washing, go to jazz club.

Bottomless coffee...

Having a very late lunch before check in at 3.

Just about to cross the Yahagi bridge into Okazaki city. Taken off my rain jacket.

Wrapping the toe. Should be away by 9.30.

A short day today - just 12km.

Rain.

Time to go back to my hotel and do some washing.

Saw some lovely storehouses (kura) today, mostly in Arimatsu, a town famous for dyeing. The encounter with the tea man got things off to a good start.

At Mr Donut in Chiryu at the end of day 8. Arrived just after 4. Toe a bit sore now. Carol King playing.

Reached Narumi. Looking for a lunch place.

Nice man in a tea shop just invited in for a drink. Toe holding up OK.

At Miya. Starting walking now.

I slept for 3 hours yesterday afternoon.

Today I take the train to Miya then walk 20km to Chiryu. I'll be leaving after 9 to avoid the rush.

The legs feel good after the rest yesterday. If it weren't for my damn toe I'd be feeling very positive.

And I miss Mrs Fool :ー(

I miss my music :ー(

I've decided to carry on. I have painkillers, and antibiotics if I need them (the infection has gone for now). Time for lunch!

Waiting at the hospital...

My toe actually feels much better today. Still looks a mess though.

I can't get the hospital scene from Lost in Translation out of my head. Didn't the woman have a sore toe?

The toe is starting to seriously hurt. I'll decide whether to carry on or call it quits tomorrow after seeing a doctor.

Got my first mossie bite today.

On the train to Nagoya. The last few km into Kuwana were tough. Very hot now. Met and and chatted with a nice young guy going the way.

Approaching Kuwana. Nearly done walking for the day. Scenery not great. Lots of small factories.

Met a group of 4 women heading the opposite way.

I'm going in for seconds...

The Japanese have done the impossible - they've created vending machines that make nice coffee.

Another shortish walk today, then a 30 min train ride into Nagoya.

Breakfasting.

Thanks to all of you who've left comments. Unfortunately I can only read them when I have internet access, which is not often.

Lunching on the outskirts of Yokkaichi. Just met a nice man walking the other way.

Arrived in Ishiyakushi. Toe feels OK.

A bit cooler today. High of 22 forecast. 70% chance of rain in the aftermoon. The toe does't look good but I can walk I think.

Dinnering at Capricciosa (for the second time this trip). Pizza and a glass of white wine.

Mmmm. Coockie Crooler Coconut.

Killing time before hotel check in at 3. I think I might have a donut at Mr D.

lf you're reading this and don't know about my history of toe troubles, go to my main blog and search for "the munted toe".

The toe feels OK. But I'm afraid to take off the bandage and look.

Last night I worked out an exit strategy just in case I can't carry on. I think I can make it to Nagoya OK. Then I have a rest day.

That's it for today. I took a wrong turn earlier and had to use my compass for the first time to get back on the Tokaido.

Arrived in Kameyama. Not limping yet, but every so often the toe reminds me it's not OK. Getting hot.

Japanese-style brekky today. Partly cloudy outside. High of 28 forecast.

Looks like my left big toe is infected. If so, I won't get much further. I'll see how I get on today. Only 15km.

Arrived in Seki. Legs feel OK. Short day tomorrow.

In Sakashita now. The pass wasn't too bad. Light drizzle.

Lunch. It's been a good morning. No rain since the first hour. But there are dark clouds ahead - and a pass.

Nearing Tsuchiyama. This is tea-growing country. The aroma is quite overpowering. Like...green tea!

Left at 7.45. Stopped to take photos at Minakuchi castle. Nurofen working!

Stopped raining now.

Took some Nurofen for my groin, toe,hips (sore from my pack) and anything else that might get sore during the day.

Good morning! It started raining a few minutes ago. Breakfasting now.

Today I walked about 25km, about the same as yesterday. Tomorrow is 28km and includes a pass.

Just arrived in Minakuchi at the end of another tough day. Nice route along narrow lanes with lots of old houses and newly planted rice fields.

Lunch on day 2. Slow going. I took a taxi to a museum at Ishibe and got a bit lost walking back.

Cloudy today, and quite a bit cooler than yesterday. The body seems to holding up OK.

Today I venture into unknown territory.

Yesterday was a repeat of the first day of the Nakasendo walk. I even lunched at the same place and stayed at the same hotel.

I packed a longーsleeved top as an afterthought. I'm wearing it today to protect my sunburnt forearms.

Breakfasting...

Brother Mark and Erik, I sent you emails from my phone. The sender will be a number followed by "softbank.co.jp".

Well, I made it. Tired, sore, and sunburnt. I hope I feel better tomorrow morning.

Before lunch I had a nice encounter with a man who's walking the length of Japan.

Lunching in Zeze. Erik will know where (hint: no rug today).

So far so good. Bloody hot though. High of 30 predicted.

Good morning. Aiming for a 7.30 start. Today's goal is Kusatsu.

On the train to Kyoto. Tomorrow I start walking.

I've arrived in Osaka. Unfortunately, so has the swine flu.

The route

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Please disregard the previous message.

Help! I'm being attacked by a bear!

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From 19 May 2009 I'll be posting here several times a day using my mobile phone.